What does Car Air Conditioning / vehicle air-conditioning actually do?
Modern vehicles come with all sorts of top end interior gadgets from the latest Bose surround sound to high end […]READ MORE -
Here at Widnes Auto Electrical we’re fully aware of all of the problems/issues that can be encountered whilst dealing with the various different types of lighting on the inside and outside of your auto-mobiles. From headlights, to tail-lights to inside car lighting. We’re the best in the Widnes area at dealing with all of the kinds of Lighting Faults that you may encounter just by being a regular day-to-day driver. We however do offer an initial go-to piece of advice on how to deal with the menial lighting problems, as long as you’re fairly savvy when it comes to electrical equipment.
However, we understand that not all people are, and not all people have the time to spare to deal with issues like this. That’s why we do offer a service, and you can come in and we’ll help solve your problem through pure mettle, rather than the sweat off your back. So, if you are having any problems with the lighting with your car, then contact us, as soon as you possibly can, we don’t want to keep you off the road, and if you’re living in the Widnes area, then you should know that we’re the best around. Or if you would like to see what other Car Electrical services we provide then please click here
Your vehicle’s brakes are arguably the most important feature on your car, so if there’s a warning light flashing on your dash highlighting there’s something wrong with the braking system, it’s best to get it checked out right away.
If your engine warning light is illuminated, often it’ll be accompanied by some unusual symptoms – these could include a lack of power, as the car has gone into ‘safe’ mode to protect itself; an intermittent stuttering as you press the accelerator, caused by a misfire; or another fault which could alter the normal response from the engine.
Sometimes this can be down to something as small as a faulty electrical sensor, although sometimes it can be a larger mechanical issue. If your car’s engine warning light is showing, get a professional mechanic to look over it straight away, as driving around any longer could cause further, and potentially irreparable damage.
The invention of the airbag was a major step forward in vehicle occupant safety, so if your car’s isn’t working properly, get it seen to.
A faulty airbag potentially won’t go off in a crash, meaning you and your passengers won’t be as well protected from any potential injuries. The other possibility is that your vehicle’s airbag could deploy when you least expect it, giving you a nasty shock – or even actually causing an injury – and an expensive fix to put right.
If your car’s power steering warning light – often known as the EPAS light – is illuminated, it means there could be something wrong with the steering system.
If the system fails, the steering could go heavy, meaning more effort will be needed to make the car change direction. This can be an annoyance at low speed when you’re trying to manoeuvre, but a real risk at higher motorway speeds if you need to make a sudden lane change to avoid an obstacle.
Most modern diesel vehicles are fitted with a diesel particulate filter, which removes harmful soot from the exhaust gases to reduce emissions.
If this is faulty it’ll trigger a warning light and could not only mean you’re releasing a toxic cloud of black smoke every time you press the accelerator, but that you could be causing damage to your engine. Get this checked out straight away as DPFs can become blocked and can be expensive to replace.
Without any coolant, your car’s engine would get so hot it’d effectively ‘weld’ itself together. If you see the coolant light show up on your dashboard, it could mean coolant levels are running low, so check the gauge on the side of the coolant tank under the bonnet and top up if necessary.
In conjunction with a temperature gauge reading well into the red, it could mean your engine is overheating. This is either the sign of a larger problem – like a head gasket failure – or symptomatic of something less major, like a leak in the system somewhere, meaning you’re engine has run low on coolant and got too hot. Get it seen to as soon as possible to avoid a potentially expensive repair bill.
Just like your car’s water or coolant warning light, you might see an oil warning light flash up if oil temperature gets too high, the level is low or oil pressure too low. It’s the latter two you want to avoid at all costs.
Oil is what lubricates your engine, with the oil pump used to spray the fluid to all corners of your engine. If temperatures get too high, or even worse, level is low or oil pressure drops, the effectiveness of the lubrication can be reduced or lost all together.
The result? Expensive engine damage, so if you see this warning sign, stop and phone a professional right away.
Once the preserve of high-end, super-expensive luxury saloons, many more cars are fitted with tyre pressure monitoring systems today.
These systems can sense a deviation away from normal tyre pressures, signifying a puncture. Generally, the device will flash a warning light on the dashboard, highlighting you should take a look at your car’s rubber.
You should see your battery charge warning light when you first turn your car on, but if it doesn’t go out a few seconds after the engine starts, there could be a problem with your car’s electrical system.
This could be to do with a faulty alternator, faulty battery, a bad connection or damaged cabling somewhere in the engine bay. If your car isn’t charging its battery when moving (the job of the alternator), then you could eventually run out of electrical power and grind to a halt.
At worst, the light could be on due to an alternator drive belt braking. Other systems also use this belt – such as the engine coolant pump, or power steering – so the affects of a failure here could be compounded.
It’s not a game of connect four or warning light bingo – if your car’s dashboard is lit up like a Christmas tree, or even if there’s one, small blinking light on there, it’s important to get it checked out.
It could be something as minor as a faulty sensor or a broken wire, but it could be something more serious that, if left unchecked, will cause lasting and expensive damage to your vehicle.
Regular servicing and maintenance can help protect your vehicle from firing off a fault, so keep a close eye on your car and its warning lights to save you money and avoid those expensive garage bills.
Have you got a warning light illuminated, or have you previously had a problem with your car signified by a telltale sign on the dashboard? How did you go about fixing it and what advice would you give to other motorists with a dash full of LED warnings?
Tbis vehicle came to us with front wash fault. Rear worked fine and as this is a single motor with a direction valve the motor was obviously ok.
When front wash stalk pressed the motor remained dead. Plugging in a diagnostic machine and looking at live data it showed when stalk was pressed so we knew stalk is ok and the wiring to the BCM behind glove box is OK, so the trouble was either the BCM or wiring from BCM to the motor. With accurate wiring diagrams we can test wiring circuits and be sure of our diagnosis. In this case the wiring was ok.
A new unit was sourced and programmed in to the car, not a cheap part but we can be confident in our diagnosis process and can fit parts with confidence
Cars are complicated. Especially engine – it needs to be fed the proper amounts of air, fuel, and spark. The suspension and brakes must be in tip-top shape. The wheels and tires, transmission, cooling system, gauges—even the seats—must all function properly. With all these being really important, many often neglect the importance of the vehicles electrical wiring system.
Poor wiring will keep your electrical components from operating at full potential. Many people would never consider the idea of wiring a vehicle. It can be daunting. — so we’ve put together a few tips to help you understand the basics.
Round Up The Right Tools – Start with a quality set of wire strippers – they will usually include a group of holes to fit most wire gauges. This enables the stripping of the insulation off your wires without accidentally cutting into the wire conductors. A wire cripper is necessary when you install solderless connectors. Most quality crimpers have two or three sections on the nose to fit various lug sizes. You can even get crimpers with wire cutting and wire stripping sections.
A soldering Iron is needed for splicing wires or securing oversized connectors that cannot be crimped. You will need solder designed specifically for electronics and wiring . Here are some other items that should be in your electrical toolbox:
• A wire brush for removing heavy corrosion, oil, or grease before soldering
• A volt/ohm meter to measure voltage and resistance levels in your circuits
• A test light to test for power within a circuit
• Shrink tubing to insulate connections from outside elements. The tubing slides over the connector or solder joint and permanently shrinks when heated
Gauge Your Wiring Needs
A factory wiring harness includes the necessary wiring for standard electrical components like windshield wipers, horn, headlights, etc. However, when you add electrical or electronic components to your vehicle, like high-end audio or racing electronics, you need to choose the proper wire on your own. There are three factors to consider: size, material, and color.
Wire size is measured by gauge—the smaller the gauge number, the larger the wire. The gauge you need depends on the current draw of the accessory and the wire length between the accessory and the power source. In general, the larger the current draw, the larger gauge wire you need to properly power the accessory.
One factor to consider with long lengths of wire is voltage drop. The longer the wire, the greater the voltage drop. You can offset voltage drop by increasing the size of the wire. As a rule of thumb, try to maintain a less than .5% voltage drop to assure maximum performance.
Wire material is usually aluminum or copper. For automotive purposes, we recommend stranded copper wire for the greatest flexibility and conductivity.
Wire color may not seem important at first glance, but it becomes crucial when you try to trace a faulty circuit down the road. To keep yourself from tearing your hair out, color-code your wire by accessory. It will help you keep track of which wire goes where during installation and troubleshooting.
Make the Connection
There are two main types of connectors: soldered and solderless. Soldered connectors are necessary with oversized wiring or if you’re splicing wires together. Solderess, or crimp, connectors can be used for most other wiring, and we’d recommend using them wherever possible.
Solderless connectors are the easiest to use and provide a good, strong connection. Usually, solderless connectors come with color-coded insulators, so you know which gauge wire they are designed for. Solderless connectors come in a variety of configurations:
Butt connectors are shaped like cylinders and are ideal for joining two wire ends together. A wire end is inserted into each end of the connector, which is crimped to complete the connection.
Spade connectors are ideal for components that are removed or serviced often. A male connector on one end of the wire fits into a female connector on the other end of the wire, completing the connection. To disconnect, just pull the connectors apart.
Ring connectors are used to secure wire to screw-type terminals; they are secured by the terminal screw.
When installing any type of connector—soldered or solderless—it is a good idea to use shrink tubing. Shrink tubing is relatively easy to install and provides added protection against electrical shorts and outside elements.
Choose the Right Components
There is more to wiring a vehicle than, well, wire. For example, you will need some sort of overload protection to protect your expensive electronics. The three basic types of overload protection are fuses, fusible links, and circuit breakers:
• Fuses are designed to blow when the circuits they protect are fed more power than the fuses are rated for. Fuses are rated by amperage; popular sizes are 3, 4, 5, 6, 7.5, 10, 12.5, 15, 20, 25, and 30 amp. Always use a fuse rated slightly higher than the accessory. For example, if an electric fan is rated at 19.5 amps, use a 25 amp fuse.
• Fusible links are another option. They are special wires made from an alloy with a lower melting point than regular copper wire. The link is spliced inline with an accessory’s power wire. In the event of an electrical overload the link will melt, preventing power from reaching the protected accessory.
• A circuit breaker will switch off power to the protected accessory in an overload situation. When the overload has been corrected, the circuit breaker is reset. Circuit breakers come in manual reset and automatic reset versions, and in the same popular amperage ratings as fuses.
You should also install relays with your wiring if your electrical accessories require a bigger current draw than a standard power switch is rated to handle. And since most switches are designed to work with very limited currents, relays are required just about every time to wire a new aftermarket electrical accessory.
Relays are extremely useful for handling high-amperage electrical accessories like large electric fans, fuel pumps, and HID headlights. They are activated by an electric coil and controlled by a switch. When the relay is closed, no power goes to the accessory in question. When you flip the accessory switch, an electric coil in the relay opens, sending power to the accessory.
There are plenty of other products to make your wiring tasks easier, including switch panels, multi-circuit main and auxiliary fuse blocks, toggle, push-button, and remote-mount switches, and of course, wiring harnesses for everything from fog lights and gauges to complete vehicles.
Map Out a Plan
Before you begin your wiring project, map out a plan. Lay out the wiring or wiring harness so you know where each wire goes and that you have enough wire to complete the job. Locate the fuse box in an easy to reach location like your glove compartment or center console. Place the necessary relays, fusible link, or circuit breakers at connections between your power source and your electrical accessory.
If the wiring isn’t labeled already, label each wire or harness with the name of the components they route to. If the wiring or harness will be going through the firewall, use a grommet in the hole so the sheetmetal won’t cut through the wires. Don’t secure the connectors until the wiring is through the firewall.
Choose a spot on or near the firewall for the common ground point for the harness, and one point for a chassis ground on the negative side of the vehicle. This method gives you a single path to the negative side of the vehicle and provides a more effective ground. Use 10 gauge or bigger wire to connect the common ground to your chassis ground.
Please note these are only tips. We in no way recommend doing this if you are not confident or qualified in this field. If you are unsure, they please do get in touch and we will be happy to help
Recovered to us this Mini was a non runner. The recovery guy said it was a fault with the key. The steering lock would not engage and the ignition wouldn’t switch on.
There were faults in various modules alot relating to traction control.
Knowing these systems we accessed the module and read live data
As you can see on this data the 2nd to last reading says the vehicle is moving. This is the reason the steering lock won’t engage.
The information from the traction control unit goes to the CAS unit behind the dash. Reading live data the 4 wheel sensors were ok. So knowing this system we know an open circuit can cause a false reading like this. With accurate wiring diagrams we were able to trace the correct wires and find a damaged wire in the loom.
You can see green residue on the grey wirer where the copper core has oxidised and broke. A simple fix and the car is up and running again.
Only if your experts in the complex electronic systems on vehicles can you work out a fault like this.
The Grand tour – We all know Jeremy Clarkson’s name from Top Gear. Since he left BBC and the show, followed by Richard Hammond and James May, The Grand Tour will be he’s first programme, also with the presence of the last two. This new show was launched on Amazon Prime streaming service and it’s been said that is basically “Top Gear with a boost”, since there are more means, financially speaking. The cost of production, the scale of the programme and even the technical support is bigger than he had before and that can be noticed in the quality of the first episode already aired.
What people are saying is that this new show tastes really like Clarkson and his mates, what means that Top Gear fans will be happy. But while The Grand Tour is being reviewed so well around the globe, the BBC attempt to revive Top Gear is not. These are good news to Clarkson, Hammond and May. We can already expect three seasons, throughout three years of twelve episodes each. One episode will approximately have an hour and they will be freed one per week.
Some say they should be shorter a bit, but throughout Twitter you can mainly see good critics from the fans, even though Amazon does not release the viewing numbers to tell for sure if the pilot was a success. From my point of view, the programme will be fine if they keep the quality as good as this first episode. It’s funny, it talks about cars, it shows you around the globe (in the pilot we can see the desert of California, United States, and then Algarve, Portugal, for example), it has all the things it needs to be a success. The only thing missing is the celebrity driving car to see how fast it can go and the score board to tells us who is the best. Apart from that, there’s nothing missing. Probably, it has more than he had in Top Gear.
The vehicle was brought in with no Blower. We stripped the dashboard to gain access to the motor and control module
The motor was found to be open circuit which would normally mean a new unit. But hear at Widnes Auto Electrical we are experts at repairing electrical motors for various applications.
The motor was stripped and repaired saving the customer over £175 against a replacement unit.
Recovered to us not running. Cars like this can be hard to work on because information and diagrams are scarce, but with our experience and proven test process we can be confident in tackling these sorts of jobs.
Customer said they pushed the internal button for central locking and car cut out. Vehicle started but wouldn’t change gear as it’s automatic.
It was found that fuse 38 listed for central locking and mirrors was blowing as soon as ignition was switched on .
Using specialist equipment we can trace the source of the short in the most efficient way.
Disconnecting all doors made no difference. Then disconnecting the relevant loom narrowed it down to the engine bay. More testing confirmed that the problem lay within the fusebox/body control module itself.
A new part was priced at over £500,but we were confident in our diagnosis to tell the customer of our findings. Luckily we managed to source a 2nd hand unit. Once plugged in and all the fault codes cleared and various systems reset, the car started first time and ran great.
This fine example of the C63 came in via another garage with headlight trouble.
The wiring to the lights was checked first as to gain access to the bulbs and hid controllers the bumper has to be completely removed.
The wiring was found to be ok so with the bumper removed we tested the bulbs and controllers
This Ford was brought in to us with intermittent non start issues. When the fault was apparent it was dead on the key and the immobliser light flashed quickly. Through experience of these faults we knew this signified that there was a communication issue between the GEM module and the ECU in the engine bay.
Accurate wiring diagrams and test procedures are key to finding these kind of faults. Through proven test procedures the fault was traced to a damaged plug in the engine bay. The plug repaired and a test drive later all was well
We are seeing more and more cars with water ingress into wiring looms and control modules especially Fords and Renault.
Here we see a GEM unit with water ingress causing all sorts of sporadic faults with wipers, warning lights and intermittent starting. The water here was from condensation off the heater matrix Here at WIDNES AUTO ELECTRICAL we are experienced at the removal and repair of these and other similar control units.
Modern vehicles come with all sorts of top end interior gadgets from the latest Bose surround sound to high end […]READ MORE -
Mercedes have been ordered by the German government to immediately recall 700,000 Vito vans, C class and GLC SUV’ due […]READ MORE -