Summer season is here
With the weather getting warmer we are starting to see more cars with A/C issues. Here is a Peugeot RCZ […]
READ MORE -
The roof on this vehicle was inoperative.
A fault code for left boot lock switch open/short circuit
The switch is located within this roof hinge. We tested switch OK. So the loom was removed and examined and a break found. We reset roof, cleared fault codes and the roof was fully operational again.
Citroën C3 in for a central locking problem. Car would start but customer couldn’t lock the vehicle with either of their 2 keys.
A quick check of the keys revealed that neither were emitting a signal.
A new key from stock was coded in using specialist equipment, at less than half the price of the dealer.
Brand New Car – How is it possible that you can have car electrical issues?
Car electric faults – The electrical systems in new cars have definitely made driving a lot easier over the decades. The seemingly endless innovations in electrical systems have helped us enjoy a more comfortable and easier drive. However they can still suffer problems just like older vehicles.
Here are some of the issues that you could face with a new vehicle’s electrical system:
Car’s Battery Is Dead – This is the most common problem…and most obvious. Check your battery by engaging your headlights and judge by the illumination.
No Power Stored in the Battery – When you turn the key, what do you hear? A little click? Does it sound like it wants to turn over? It is possible that your car’s battery does not have ample power to crank the starter. You need a new battery.
Alternator is Not Working – A damaged or broken alternator could be the culprit. No alternator? No battery recharge. If your car suddenly start to lose “juice” while drive, you’ll know it could be your new car’s alternator.
Problem with Starter or Solenoid – Good parts gone bad parts. If it’s the starter, it won’t turn over. If you have Solenoid issues, you might find it harder to brake.
Battery Cables Might Be The Problem – A loose cable might be the root of the problem…give them a wiggle before you run out and buy a replacement.
Electrical Fuses – Check for any blown fuses in your fuse box. Also, feel around for any loose wires.
Cracks In Alternator Belt – Too much or too little tension, as well as cracks in the alternator belt cause trouble.
Ignition System Has Problems – You have a busted ignition switch. Give your mechanic a call.
Loose Spark Plugs – Loose or old plugs will certainly affect the operation of your vehicle. Are you losing power as gears change? Does it lurch as if the gears aren’t engaging? It might be the internal combustion and the culprit is usually the plugs and cables.
If you are facing any of these issues, with a new car, or an old, then we definitely recommend you go to your local auto electrician to get a proper diagnosis. It may just save you money in the long run. Especially if your new car is still under warranty.
>
Into our workshop was this Mercedes which had a fault where intermittently the key wouldn’t turn in the ignition switch, this is a infrared key. Through a series of tests it was found that both keys were faulty and also the EIS(electronic ignition switch).
A new key was priced at £240+vat and the EIS at £425+vat. With the age of the vehicle was not something that was viable. Another option is to change various components on the car relating to security because everything is coded and needs to match, so a 2nd hand EIS unit would not match the engine ECU and also the ESL(electronic steering lock).
We managed to source a complete set of components
These were all fitted, the steering lock is particularly hard to fit as it was in the locked position so is hard to remove.
With the new kit being off an estate car we had to perform adaptions on it so the electronic boot release would work.
Another happy customer saved from perhaps having to scrap the vehicle.
This Audi was in our workshop with airbag light on. A quick scan with our autologic showed internal fault in airbag module. We stripped the dashboard down to gain access to the module to check connections at the unit.
Quite a few items have to be removed to access the module.
The wiring was confirmed OK. So using our VAG Airbag tool we are able to reset the hard data within the module saving the customer the expense of a new unit which in this case was over £400.
This came in with a battery drain amongst other troubles.
The drain wasn’t on any fused circuit, at this point many workshops may have struggled to isolate the fault. Here at Widnes Auto Electrical we have specialist tools and training for such faults and using our thermal imaging camera we could scan the vehicle for any hotspots where current is being drawn and heat generated.
This picture shows the electric ariel after the vehicle being stood overnight still showing 48.8degrees. The camera can see this even when panelling and carpet insulation in in the way.
The airbag light was illuminated, a quick serial scan showed passenger occupancy sensor fault a common issue on these cars. A quick test of the wiring confirmed all OK up to seat.
A lot of people then fit a module that kids the car into thinking someone is sat in the seat and so turns the light off, a cheap but dangerous repair. The purpose of this sensor is not just to see if the seat is occupied but also the weight of the person so if a small child was sat in the seat in the avent of a crash through airbag would not deploy as it can do more harm than good. With this module you lose that function.
Luckily this customer understood the dangers and went with a correct fix. The customer sourced there own sensor which we tested first as fitting is quite fiddly as it sits in the seat underneath the cushioning
With the seat refitted and all codes cleared car was fixed
Recovered to us this Mini was a non runner. The recovery guy said it was a fault with the key. The steering lock would not engage and the ignition wouldn’t switch on.
There were faults in various modules alot relating to traction control.
Knowing these systems we accessed the module and read live data
As you can see on this data the 2nd to last reading says the vehicle is moving. This is the reason the steering lock won’t engage.
The information from the traction control unit goes to the CAS unit behind the dash. Reading live data the 4 wheel sensors were ok. So knowing this system we know an open circuit can cause a false reading like this. With accurate wiring diagrams we were able to trace the correct wires and find a damaged wire in the loom.
You can see green residue on the grey wirer where the copper core has oxidised and broke. A simple fix and the car is up and running again.
Only if your experts in the complex electronic systems on vehicles can you work out a fault like this.
This porsche boxster came in with a battery drain, something that can be very tricky to find but with our new thermal camera the drain was found quickly.
As seen here the radio/satnav unit was found to be faulty although to the naked eye it looked OK
